How to sew on patches?
Quick Answer
Sewing a patch involves securing the badge with pins or adhesive and stitching around the edges with a strong needle and thread. A whip stitch or a running stitch provides a durable bond that prevents the patch from peeling or falling off during use.
Preparing the Fabric and Positioning the Patch
A person often finds a perfect patch at a thrift store or a concert but struggles to make it stay on a denim jacket. The most common problem starts with the placement because patches tend to shift while the needle moves through the fabric. Instead of relying on traditional sewing pins which can bend or leave large holes in delicate materials, a washable glue stick is a secret tool for success. Applying a small amount of glue to the back of the patch keeps it perfectly centered without the risk of finger pricks from pins.
Another important step involves checking the fabric of the garment before starting. If a person sews a patch onto a brand-new cotton shirt that hasn't been washed, the fabric might shrink later in the laundry. This causes the patch to look puckered or wrinkled because the patch itself does not shrink at the same rate as the shirt. Always wash and dry the item first to ensure the surface remains flat and professional after the sewing is finished.
One specific scenario involves a student wanting to add a large embroidered patch to a heavy canvas backpack. The material of the bag is so stiff that standard pins cannot pierce the layers. In this case, the student can use small binder clips or even a piece of double-sided tape to hold the patch in place. This allows them to focus on the stitching rather than fighting to keep the patch from sliding down the bag during the process.
Choosing the Right Tools for Heavy Materials
Many people assume any needle and thread will work for a patch, but thick embroidered badges require specific gear. A standard sewing needle often feels flimsy when trying to push through the plastic-like heat-seal backing found on many modern patches. An experienced crafter uses a thimble on their middle finger to provide the extra force needed to drive the needle through these tough layers. Without a thimble, the back of the needle can easily bruise or puncture the skin of the person sewing.
Thread choice also determines how long the patch stays attached to the item. While standard polyester thread works for light decorative patches, it often snaps when used on outdoor gear or work clothes. A unique insight for maximum durability is to use unflavored dental floss as thread for patches on hiking bags or heavy jackets. Floss is much stronger than traditional thread and is nearly impossible to break by hand, making it ideal for items that face a lot of friction.
When working with leather vests or thick leather bags, a regular round needle will fail and likely dull after just a few stitches. For these specific cases, a glover's needle is necessary because it has a triangular, sharpened tip designed to cut through leather rather than just pushing through it. Using a regular needle on leather often results in jagged holes and a messy appearance, while the glover's needle creates a clean and effortless stitch line.
Common Stitching Mistakes and Consequences
One of the most frequent errors occurs when a person forgets to check the inside of the garment before they start stitching. It is very easy to accidentally sew a jacket pocket shut or sew through both layers of a sleeve. If this happens, the person must use a seam ripper to cut all the stitches and start over, which can leave permanent marks or weakened threads in the fabric. Always place a small piece of cardboard inside the pocket or sleeve to act as a physical barrier that prevents the needle from catching the bottom layer.
Another mistake is using a thread length that is too long, often exceeding the distance from the fingertips to the elbow. While it seems efficient to use one long piece of thread, it almost always leads to bird-nesting or complex tangles behind the patch. These knots can create a bulky lump that feels uncomfortable against the skin and may eventually pull the stitches loose. It is better to use shorter lengths of thread and tie them off securely as the work progresses around the perimeter of the patch.
Edge security is also a common area where things go wrong. If the stitches are placed too far apart, the edges of the patch will eventually flip up and catch on things like bag straps or seatbelts. This constant tugging weakens the thread until the patch eventually rips away. Using a whip stitch where the thread wraps over the very edge of the patch provides the best protection against fraying and lifting over time.
Exceptions and Limitations of Sewing Patches
Standard sewing advice often fails when dealing with iron-on patches that have a very thick, hard adhesive backing. These patches are designed to be melted onto the fabric, but the glue often fails after a few trips through the dryer. The problem is that the dried glue becomes so hard that a needle cannot pass through it easily. In this situation, the person should only sew through the very outer border of the patch where the embroidery is thickest but the plastic glue is usually thinner.
There are also limits to where a patch can be successfully placed. Sewing a large, stiff patch onto a highly curved area like the shoulder of a tight-fitting shirt will cause the fabric to bulge awkwardly. The patch does not have the flexibility to follow the shape of the body, which can make the garment feel restrictive and look strange. For curved areas, it is better to use smaller, flexible patches or embroidery that moves with the fabric.
Finally, waterproof gear like rain jackets or tents presents a major exception to sewing rules. Every time a needle passes through waterproof material, it creates a permanent hole that allows water to leak inside. Sewing a patch onto a rain coat will ruin its ability to keep the wearer dry unless a specialized seam sealer is applied over the stitches on the inside of the garment. For these items, using a high-quality fabric adhesive or a specialized gear repair tape is often a better choice than traditional sewing.
Frequently Asked Questions
Should I use a sewing machine or sew by hand?
A sewing machine is faster for flat surfaces like the back of a jacket, but hand sewing is better for tight spots like sleeves or hat brims where a machine cannot reach.
What is the best stitch for a patch?
The whip stitch is generally best because it wraps around the edge of the patch, preventing the corners from peeling up or fraying over time.
Can I sew over an iron-on patch that is peeling?
Yes, sewing over an iron-on patch is the best way to save it. Use a heavy-duty needle to get through the dried glue layer.
What thread color should I use?
Most people match the thread to the border color of the patch so the stitches disappear. Alternatively, use a clear nylon thread for an invisible look.
How do I stop the thread from knotting while I sew?
Run the thread over a piece of beeswax before sewing. This coats the fibers and prevents them from twisting and tangling as you pull the needle through.