How to sew a hole in a shirt?
Quick Answer
To sew a hole in a shirt, thread a needle with matching all-purpose thread and secure it with a knot. For seam rips, use a ladder stitch to pull the edges together invisibly; for fabric holes, use a darning technique by weaving thread horizontally and vertically across the gap in an over-under pattern until the space is filled.
Understanding Shirt Fabric and Damage Types
Successful garment repair depends entirely on identifying whether the damage is a blown seam or a true hole in the textile weave. A seam failure occurs when the original thread snaps, leaving two clean edges of fabric that simply need to be rejoined. This is common in high-stress areas like the underarms or side vents of button-down shirts. In contrast, a hole in the fabric involves missing or broken yarns, often caused by snags, moths, or friction.
Before starting your repair in 2025, check the fabric composition on the care tag. Woven fabrics like poplin or oxford cotton require a sharp universal needle, while knit fabrics found in t-shirts or polos require a ball-point needle to prevent further running of the material. Using the wrong needle type can cause micro-tears that eventually lead to larger holes than the one you started with.
How to Sew a Hole in a Shirt
Begin by selecting a high-quality polyester thread, such as Coats and Clark Dual Duty, that matches the darkest thread in the shirt's pattern. Cut a 18-inch length of thread and pass it through a size 70/10 needle for lightweight fabrics or an 80/12 for heavier flannels. Tie a small, secure knot at the end of the thread. Trim any loose or frayed fibers around the hole using sharp embroidery scissors to ensure you are working with stable fabric edges.
For a hole in the middle of the fabric, work from the inside of the shirt. Insert the needle roughly 1/4 inch away from the edge of the hole to anchor the thread in strong material. Create a series of parallel vertical stitches across the opening, spaced about 1/16 of an inch apart. Once the hole is covered vertically, begin weaving the needle horizontally through these existing threads in an over-under pattern. This creates a new miniature patch of fabric that is integrated directly into the shirt.
For a seam repair, use the ladder stitch. Insert your needle from the inside of the seam to hide the knot, then bring it to the outside. Take a small 1/8 inch horizontal stitch along the fold of one side of the seam, then move directly across to the other side and take another 1/8 inch stitch. After completing 5 or 6 of these rungs, pull the thread taut to watch the seam close invisibly. Finish by making a tiny backstitch and a knot on the interior of the shirt, then weave the remaining thread tail into the seam allowance for 1 inch before cutting.
Common Mistakes to Avoid
The most frequent error is pulling the thread too tight during the darning process, which creates a puckered, puck-shaped lump that is more noticeable than the original hole. This happens when the tension of the repair does not match the natural drape of the shirt fabric. Another mistake is using a single strand of thread for heavy-duty repairs; always use a double strand if you are fixing a hole in denim or thick work shirts to ensure the repair survives the agitation of a washing machine.
Beginners often use a thread color that is too light. Because thread is cylindrical, it reflects light differently than flat fabric, and a lighter color will almost always stand out. Always opt for a shade darker than the garment if an exact match is not available. Finally, failing to secure the start and end of the repair properly will cause the entire mend to unravel after a single wear cycle. Always anchor your stitches in healthy fabric at least 5 millimeters away from the damaged area.
Expert Tips for Best Results
To achieve a truly professional finish, place a small piece of lightweight fusible interfacing on the backside of the hole before you begin sewing. This stabilizes the surrounding area and prevents the fabric from stretching while you work. For delicate dress shirts, run your thread through a block of beeswax or a thread conditioner to reduce friction and prevent the thread from knotting on itself as you sew.
If you are repairing a t-shirt or jersey fabric, use a darning egg or even a smooth lightbulb placed inside the garment. This provides a curved, firm surface that maintains the natural tension of the knit while you weave your repair, preventing the fabric from collapsing inward. For an invisible look on pinstriped or patterned shirts, change your thread color to match the stripes as you move across the hole, which masks the repair even under close inspection.
Frequently Asked Questions
Can I sew a hole in a shirt without a needle and thread?
Yes, you can use iron-on mending tape or fusible web for small holes. Place a piece of the adhesive tape on the inside of the shirt, pull the edges of the hole together as closely as possible, and press with a hot iron for 10 to 15 seconds to bond the fabric.
How do I fix a hole in a t-shirt invisibly?
Use a ball-point needle and a single strand of polyester thread. Use a tiny zig-zag stitch or a series of small whipstitches around the edges, ensuring you catch the loops of the knit fabric to stop it from running like a stocking.
Will a sewn hole stay closed in the laundry?
A hand-sewn repair will stay closed if you anchor the thread in healthy fabric 1/4 inch away from the hole and finish with a double knot. For best results, wash the repaired garment on a delicate cycle in a mesh laundry bag.
What is the best stitch for a large hole?
Darning is the best stitch for large holes. It involves creating a woven grid of thread that replaces the missing fabric. If the hole is larger than a dime, you may need to sew a fabric patch behind the hole first and then stitch the edges down.
How do I match thread color perfectly?
Pull a single strand of thread from your spool and lay it across the shirt fabric. Thread looks darker on the spool than it does as a single strand. If the single strand disappears against the fabric, it is a perfect match.